The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super quirky and unique watch Ulysse Nardin’s first Freak watch was unveiled in Basel in 2001, completely shocking the entire watch industry. Completely reimagining what a watch can do and tell time with no crown, no dial, no hands. The gear train spread across the dial looks complex but reads deceptively simple, and its classic yet modern clever design and pure beauty became the watchmaking zeitgeist of the 2000s almost overnight.
The original idea to reimagine the flying tourbillon movement came from Carole Forestier-Kasapi. Under the guidance of legendary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, the tourbillon movement became not only a timekeeping device but also a method of reading time, and the Freak watch was born. Of course, its mechanical concept innovation is not the only first creation in the first generation of Freak. Its silicon mainspring is also groundbreaking.
Since its launch, the Freak series has been a treasure trove of iteration and innovation, including novel uses of materials and experimentation with mechanical concepts. The brand has also experimented with different aesthetics, from more modern and tactical chrome, gray and blue, to rose gold and yellow gold, and even added diamonds for a touch of elegance.
However, this year's iteration is arguably the most balanced and refined pinnacle of them all. Paying homage to the past, most notably the gold-toned bezel and gear train bridge, inspired by the original Freak, and the notches on the bezel inspired by the latest version, as well as the more streamlined case shape for 2019. The 44mm case is made of grade 5 titanium and is only 12mm thick, making this watch surprisingly light and easy to wear. The matte black DLC finish and ballistic black rubber strap give it a unique look. Very secretive appearance. Although the movement of this watch is very durable, ignore any nautical cues the anchor may give off, as the Freak One's 30-meter water resistance will limit its usefulness on the deck of a yacht.
Skeletonized 18K rose gold gear train bridges, set against subtly engraved anthracite bridges, make the movement a real centerpiece and give the One a sophisticated look that perfectly blends technicality with elegance. Luminous arrows on the top of the main gear train and on the hour dial combine with the peripheral 18K gold hour markers and quarter markers to make the time easy to read in any light. The bezel is also made of 18K rose gold, which contrasts sharply with the anthracite color to create more balance. The notch is an intentionally geometric shape, a sleeker and more modern twist on the scalloped old version, making it easy to move the bezel. The movement is protected by a slightly raised sapphire crystal.
Technically speaking, the UN-240 in-house movement is a flying carousel, with the movement part itself replacing the hands to display the time. The main gear train on the dial is connected to the gear below the bezel and completes one complete revolution around the center point every hour. The main gear train therefore doubles as the minute hand. The hour arrow is on a disc that completes a full circle around the central point every 12 hours, so the hours and minutes are read from the same peripheral markers. The balance wheel is made from a single piece of silicon and interacts with a highly durable diamond-coated silicon lever escapement, providing durability, shock resistance and anti-magnetic properties: the culmination of many years of "Freak" mechanical innovation. The movement is self-winding and has a power reserve of up to 72 hours when fully wound, with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.